Section

Food

Past Editor: Patrick Abatiell

  • The World Is a Factory Farm

    The World Is a Factory Farm

    If factory farming is the source of pathogens like SARS-CoV-2, could smaller-scale farms and communities—even in China—be the safest alternative?

  • Public Thinker: B. R. Cohen on How Food Became “Pure”

    Public Thinker: B. R. Cohen on How Food Became “Pure”

    “There were so many new laws, I had to make a map showing the spread and intensity of antimargarine laws in states over a quarter century.”[none-for-homepage]

  • Why Seek Impossible Foods?

    Why Seek Impossible Foods?

    The Impossible™ burger does pollute less. But does this matter, in the face of capitalism’s continued control of the global food system?

  • A Culinary Golden Age—but for Whom?

    A Culinary Golden Age—but for Whom?

    In the 17th century, nostalgia was considered a disease. Today, nostalgia has shifted from an individual illness to a collective malaise. It is now often …

  • What Future for Magic Mushrooms?

    What Future for Magic Mushrooms?

    Hallucinogenic mushrooms have been used for centuries by numerous indigenous peoples around the world. These fungi appear in Aztec statues (like the one …

  • “There Is Always a Norther North”: Highway 1, Alaska

    “There Is Always a Norther North”: Highway 1, Alaska

    There’s a fire burning by Swan Lake. For the sixth time in the last 20 years …

  • Can a Recipe Save Your Life?

    Can a Recipe Save Your Life?

    A recipe can be more than a guide to making food. A recipe can be a mantra, a ritual, a symbolic stay against chaos in the psyche and in the world. A hybrid genre …

  • For the Love of Doughnuts

    For the Love of Doughnuts

    On the surface, Bet Me by Jennifer Crusie tells the story of Minerva and Cal, who fall in love with each other. Really, though, Bet Me is a story about a fat woman …

  • India’s Garbage Politics

    India’s Garbage Politics

    Writing in 1993, after decades spent documenting America’s shifting landscapes, poet A. R. Ammons suggested that “garbage [ought] to be the poem of our time.” Inspired by “mounds of disposal” along a stretch of I-95 in Florida, Ammons’s plea to recognize the silent ubiquity of waste would grow into a book-length tribute.1 But the waste…

  • The Vegan Resistance

    The Vegan Resistance

    In 2011, Oprah Winfrey asked her staff at Harpo Studios to take a vegan challenge: eat no meat, fish, eggs, dairy, or any other animal products for seven days. The episode, which has since enjoyed a robust afterlife on YouTube, included a visit to a Cargill meat processing plant, cooking advice from “veganish” self-help advocate…

  • Visible Cities

    Visible Cities

    We’ve seen a lot of maps in the past six months, but a multitude of maps doesn’t necessarily translate into an expanded sense of the territory. It can be awfully hard to find one’s place. During last fall’s US presidential election, voter maps of the United States reduced complicated demographics to the visual equivalent of…

  • On the Origin of Extinction

    On the Origin of Extinction

    Extinction has never been a purely scientific concept. When theories of extinction exploded onto the Western intellectual scene in the early 19th …

  • Tell Us How We Did

    Tell Us How We Did

    In 1928, Eric Blair, an unemployed, itinerant writer and former British colonial policeman, went to work as a dishwasher in a Paris hotel. Five years later, under the pen name George Orwell, Blair would assemble his reflections on the lives of Parisian service laborers into the first part of a gritty satirical memoir called, Down…

  • Sex, Violence, and “The Vegetarian”

    Sex, Violence, and “The Vegetarian”

    The verdict is in. Han Kang’s The Vegetarian has not only received glowing praise from British and American literary supplements; it has become the first Korean novel to be shortlisted for a Booker Prize. One reviewer found it “glorious,” a “ferocious, magnificently death-affirming novel,” another a “bracing, visceral, system-shocking addition to the Anglophone reader’s diet.”1 Speaking…

  • On Writing and Restaurant Labor

    On Writing and Restaurant Labor

    December 1, 2015 — In the late summer of 2010, Eleven Madison Park, a four-star restaurant in New York City catering to the tastes of the super-rich, decided to temporarily shutter and rebrand. Eleven Madison had been steadily scaling up its operation since opening in 1998 as a mid-range French bistro notoriously out of step…

  • The Postindustrial Pastoral

    The Postindustrial Pastoral

    Adrienne Su’s accomplished new book of poems Living Quarters invites meditation on the material specificities of too-readily-typecast locales. Recalibrating the geographical and cultural tropes of American nature writing, Living Quarters offers readers a portrait of rural modernity1 rather than pastoral nostalgia—a portrait that unsettles the divisions of agricultural versus industrial and provincial versus cosmopolitan that…

  • Eating Galettes in Rennes

    Eating Galettes in Rennes

    This is the latest installment of Public Streets, a biweekly urban observations series curated by Ellis Avery. The sky above Rennes spits gentle rain. In French we call this crachin, from the verb cracher, meaning to spit. Brittany is harsh. It has the pointed chin of a witch, jabbing out into the Atlantic Ocean on…

  • The Market and the Fest

    The Market and the Fest

    This is the latest installment of Public Streets, a biweekly urban observations series curated by Ellis Avery. In the rural villages of southern Germany, the rain rolls in breakers down the hills, curving along the little streets, stretching its path in tiny rivulets, dampening window box gardens. The villagers are so efficient: on the highways…

  • Who is General T?

    By now the March 30, 2005 Powerball drawing seems to have taken on the workings of a tall tale: In a pot nearing $14 million, Powerball officials usually expect four to five second-place winners. This time, 110 players got five of the six numbers correct, winning anywhere from $100,000 to $500,000, depending on their original…

  • Edible Comics

    Edible Comics

    Comics and food have a longstanding relationship, most spectacularly in a unique genre known in Japan, its country of origin, as ryôri manga, or cooking comics. These are comics entirely devoted to food—its preparation, its appreciation. Today we can find food comics in France and the US, but this is a genre that traces its…